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Credit: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock At Valentino, where Maria Grazia Chiuri previously worked before joining Dior late last Summer , she designed, along with her long-standing collaborator Pier Paolo Picciolo (he stayed there when she moved to Paris) intensely romantic, airily constructed eveningwear. Diors CEO Sidney Toledano, who appointed her, must have hoped shed bring that magic to Dior, which has had a patchy time on the red carpet recently, and so it will surely prove. Lucky, lucky Kirsten Dunst, the only Hollywood face at yesterdays show. She may get first pick. For those who dont require much in the way of floor-length jewelled tulle, the daywear was even more satisfying. I really wanted to achieve the dream of Dior, but also something women could wear, says Chiuri. She opened with black tailoring, a Dior cornerstone, but never more contemporary looking and streamlined. Tailoring also featured heavily in Dior's SS17 Couture show Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images To suggest the featherweight possibilities of the Bar Jacket first introduced in 1947as part of Diors New Look she turned it into a quasi-blouse, with slashed sleeves and a pleated peplum, a far cry from its horsehair padded days. Easy to picture this sliding into the most androgynous wardrobe, perhaps with jeans and the voile kitten heel slingbacks and backless loafers in this show.

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